phishfood

Wow .. the 2006 is, um, 7 years old and I'm going to be getting new tires soon.

Seems to me it's time to proactively put in new TPMS sensors as the current ones are probably in the later 1/3rd of their battery life.

SO

Does anyone know if it's simply popping the new ones in with the tires? Or do you need to do some special reprogramming, or tell the car it has new TPMS sensors mounted?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

of they are OEM they should auto learn

M T L T L

Speaking of TPMS, I have one of the sensors always showing 400 kPa, 58 psi and after driving a while, it throws a tpms error warning. Could this be due to dying battery or a faulty unit ?

MrKev

Anytime a TPMS is replaced you'll need to go to honda/acura dealer and have them reprogrammed otherwise it will not read tire pressures

BDoggPrelude

The sensors for the RL are auto-learning. Once they are installed they begin to read within a few blocks or so of the car driving. I have 3 sets of wheels/tires all with their own sensors. 2 of the sets are aftermarket sensors made by Schrader and they operate exactly the same as the OEM sensors. No programming needed.

As far as being "proactive" about this, I would just wait. Once they start having errors or the batteries die get them replaced but I would not jump the gun and just replace them when they work just fine. I do recommend having them rebuilt, (new grommets, valve cores, sleeves and caps), as preventative maintenance. This will make sure they do not start leaking, have seized valve cores or corroded sleeves.
The proper aftermarket sensors also auto learn.
It is probably a dying battery in the sensor. They are sealed units so the only way to replace the battery is to replace the entire sensor.
This is not true. See my above statement. I have 2 sets of aftermarket sensors that needed no reprogramming.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

All lies... if the car sits with a dead battery there are sensors that need to be re-synced but the TPMS is not one of them.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Clearly you have this all covered.

BDoggPrelude

Lol. I hope so. I only deal with this shit 5 days a week.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

hahahaha

Since this thread is done, do you guys sell the replacement stems for our TPMS?

I have a core that is seized.

BDoggPrelude

Yeah. The stems are super easy to change out. I think they're like $10 and most Discounts will do the install for free since there's no need to dismout/mount/rebalance the tire.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

yeah, I dont have a discount store in the 23234 area.

I just need to break the bead and swap it out. Good to know they are cheap, it isnt leaking but I want the stems on hand just incase since I know its bad

BDoggPrelude

The only issue you'll run into with a seized valve core is deflating the assembly. As long as the core will still depress to bleed the air you will be okay. If the core is destroyed and you can't bleed the air from it you'll have to remove the sleeve/hex nut and drop the sensor into the assembly to get the air out. In this case you would need a shop to dismount, remount and balance the tire.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Yeah its weird, the nipple that you depress to add/release air works fine but its pushed out above the edge of the stem.

I thought the valve core was loose so I tried to tighten it and it was tight.
So then when I went to take the core out to replace it I got two turns, started to hear air, but it just spins and wont come out.

Not sure what happened because when I mounted these tires they were all fine.

BDoggPrelude

It happens over time. Moisture gets inside and weakens the valve core and threading. They are pretty small pieces and are not incredibly durable. The valve core itself is made up of 3 different parts.

BTW, you might want to call Discount Tire Direct and see if they stock and sell the TPMS stems.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Right on, I'll probably just snag an OEM part from the sponsor unless you think the aftermarket it the same quality.

oo7spy

Brian, Discount here swapped the sensor on my wife's CR-V, but the Low Pressure Indicator is still blinking. They claim they tried to resync it twice. I figured it would go away after driving. Alas, 8 months later and it's still blinking.

What did they do wrong? Should they be willing to resync for free?

BDoggPrelude

I would say they are comparable quality. There isn't really a difference either way.
There might be a few different sensor options for the vehicle. Did you buy the sensor from Discount? Regardless, they'll try to reset the TPMS for free but if the wrong sensor was used it won't matter.

oo7spy

Discount did all of the work. Sensor debug, replacement, and sync attempt. The car will allow me to turn VSA off which it didn't before, so I know the something has changed.

BDoggPrelude

Did you buy the sensor from Discount though?

oo7spy

Yes. $75.

BDoggPrelude

I'm off this week but, if you want, I can look up your info on Monday and see which sensor they put in your CR-V and if there might be a different sensor they should have used.

oo7spy

I was wondering why you were posting at 9 am instead of 9 pm.

Jamesgt727

I flip flop between two sets of rims/tires with different TPMS sensors almost weekly. It auto learns. Never had to do anything.

misdeismo

Quick question, I bought some wheels for my car and also bought new tpms sensors part#06421-SV3-A04 which is the sensor kit. The tire shop I went to had trouble mounting the tpms sensor as the wheel would leak air after install.

I see that the sensor kit came with a gray plastic cap/washer that was on the bottom of the securing nut. Is that a necessary peice? Looking at the parts diagram I see what looks like a washer but its not included in the sensor kit and although it is numbered in the parts diagram, it is not listed as a part that can be purchased.

Is there anything that is supposed to go in between the wheel and the securing nut?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Are you using a new nut? Here are the steps from Honda

BDoggPrelude

The OEM TPMS sensors do not use any other washers other than the plastic one that is built into the valve nut. There are 6 basic parts to them:

-Sensor
-Stem with screw
-Rubber grommet
-Valve nut
-Valve core
-Valve cap

The only thing that is tricky with the Acura sensors is the valve nut. It is basically a lock nut. You have to turn past a certain amount of resistance before it loosens up and can then be tightened down the rest of the way. It should be pretty obvious to any even remotely reputable installation shop. There is a possibility that the wheels themselves are not TPMS compatible. On some wheels the valve holes are recessed on the inside of the wheel enough to where the sensor physically hits the wheel before the valve nut is properly torqued down leaving the grommet loose. It's really hard to say without actually looking at the wheels. If it comes down to it, you could always get band kits that can be used to mount the sensors to the barrel of the wheel.

misdeismo

Hey guys thanks for the tips. The wheel I bought is tpms compatible. Yeah the shop is one of those tire shops that know what to do from experience but not necessarily the principle behind it.

That resistance you speak of, do you know whether that's above the 3 ft-lb limit stated? I feel like I should have mounted the sensors myself and took the wheels to have the tire put on afterwards.

So far after two days riding around it seems like one of the wheels has a small leak from the stem so i'll see if I can use the advice given to mount it properly. I wonder if the ones that were installed should be fiddled with if they are sealing.

Should I buy a new valve nut and grommet now since they are one time use?

misdeismo

Hmmm, so the valve nut should "pop" which probably causes the deformation that creates the correct seal over the stem. Hmmm, I don't recall witnessing that pop when the tire guy was installing them.

BDoggPrelude

It's not really a pop. It's just a resistance that you can feel, almost like it is being cross-threaded, that you have to turn through. If using the proper torque specs, it will not torque at before the lock nut turns through. You would know if they didn't turn through it. It would be leaking like crazy, not just a slow leak. Take it to a different shop. If you want to drive to Colorado, I would be more than happy to do it for you.

oo7spy

Road trip! Swing through VA to get Heavy on your way to Austin...

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I'll be on the porch waiting.

If you re-used the nuts it wont seal.

misdeismo

Hey that's not a bad idea. Haven't taken a road trip in the RL yet lol. oo7spy, I'm taking it slow through VA, they got me for speeding and now I have 24 hours of community service to look forward to lol.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

You must have been 80+ speeding.

misdeismo

Yes unfortunately. 90 in a 70 on I95 at 2:00 in the morning. I was quite pissed at myself

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

haha, welcome to the commonwealth.

Did you get a ticket or an over night stay and impound?

misdeismo

I got a ticket in Sussex. I tried to use my dog as an excuse cause he was there and was a little car sick but the damn trooper wasn't having any of that, gotta meet that quota lol.

misdeismo

Wow luckily I didn't get an overnight stay, that would have been terrible.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

yeah, triple digits gets you a stay, luckily you were only 20 over.
81+ is the magic number here to get a driving award, 79.5 and under you are good.

NC state line to Petersburg and then again a little farther north is the gauntlet. haha

misdeismo

Well here's an update to the tpms issue I was having. Apparently the installer did not tighten the valve nut tight enough causing the valve to leak. What I ended up doing on my own was using a ratchet and socket to tighten each nut until there was no more give being careful not to over torque them.

The installer I remember only used pliers which did not provide enough torque for him to break that initial resistance that you could with a ratchet. When I tightened them I heard a little pop sound which I understand indicates that you are tightening the valve nut properly.

Anyway, will give it a couple more days to see whether they hold pressure properly but I'm sure it will be fine as I checked with water for air bubbles.

Thanks for the help guys.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Nice update... time for a new installer.