http://rl.acurazine.com/forums en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:34:00 GMT vBulletin 60 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/images/maestro/misc/rss.jpg http://rl.acurazine.com/forums http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753029&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:33:08 GMT Is there a Service Reminder that comes up for the 105K service?

I'm at 102K+ and all I see is the oil status % in the MID which is at 70%. I'll clearly pass 105 before the oil change reminder comes on. ]]> Second Generation RL getakey http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753029 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753017&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:46:51 GMT *_3x3 Transmission Fluid Change_* *_Shudder At Low RPM While in 4th or 5th_* *Background:* When I first purchased the car, it had 83K miles on it and I changed out all the fluids. The transmission fluid change was a simple drain and refill. The transmission fluid change of this...

3x3 Transmission Fluid Change

Shudder At Low RPM While in 4th or 5th

Background:

When I first purchased the car, it had 83K miles on it and I changed out all the fluids. The transmission fluid change was a simple drain and refill. The transmission fluid change of this thread is in regards to the transmission fluid only and not the transfer case that drives the propeller shaft. Transmission fluid used was Honda ATF-Z1 and the total capacity is 7.3 or 7.9 liters (I forgot which one it is) but the drain and refill only requires 2.9 liters. FYI transfer case used hypoid gear oil G4/G5. Additionally, so you know, our transmissions have a filter but it is internal and cannot be changed unless you take the transmission apart.

When I changed the transmission fluid, I noticed that the fluid drained was new oil colored brown and not red as it should be. I had changed the transmission fluid 13K miles before (drain and refill) and now it is still not red. So I decided to do a complete flush by draining and refilling 3 times to completely replenish fluid to new. By draining and filling 3 times this introduces 2.9*3=8.7 liters of new fluid in the transmission. Therefore, it will pretty much get all the old fluid out. You have to drive the car and go through all gears between each drain and refill. So essentially you are purging the fluid out. I drove for approximately 10 miles after each drain and refill being sure to go through all the gears (including reverse).

I have a shudder while in 4th or 5th at 1300-1600 rpm’s and am desperately trying to fix this. I am interested if completely having new fluid will solve my shudder problem. I have been driving in sports mode all the time to keep the rpm’s above 1,600, as this prevents the shudder. I miss so much my car not being able to be driven in full automatic mode. When it shudders it sounds terrible! I offer this thread as to expose the latent problems of changing the ATF.

Procedure

1st : Raise Car

You have to jack the car up so it is level and get enough clearance to access everything. This can be a challenge. I recommend to all who would like to do this to invest in 4 jack stands and a low profile floor jack (similar to what stock car crews use). I am not positive but a regular floor jack may not be low enough to get under the front bumper. I am positive that a 2.5 ton simple floor jack will not fit under the bumper. The low profile floor jack enables you to get under the front bumper to lift the entire front end up and place the two stands behind the front tires at the lift points.

After getting the front end up on stands, go to the back and lift up rear end (at the lifting point which is the metal loop at the center under the bumper) until car is level and place the jacks under the front of the rear tires at the lift points. Note a 2.5 simple floor jack will not raise the car high enough to get the jacks into place. This can be overcome by placing wood spacers under the jack to increase the lift height.

2nd: Splash Shield Removal

Remove the engine splash shield, which is a pain and of bad design IMO. One should not have to remove the engine splash shield just to get to the drain bolt. Removal of the splash shield is self explanatory (remove screws and tabs that secure the splash shield). When removing the tabs some may break. Just take the tabs that break to a car parts store and they can match them up to the correct size and sell you a bulk bag of 10 for cheap.

3rd: Drain

Drain the fluid by removing the dipstick and removing the transmission drain bolt. Drain bolt requires 3/8” socket head (The square head on the end of a 3/8” ratchet). Before draining, make sure the engine is hot so you get a good drain (hot fluid assists with greater removal of debris).

Notice that the drain plug has a magnet on the end of it that will be covered with a thin layer of sludge like grey fluid. This is normal for the magnet catches metal debris from normal wear. After the drain flow has stopped, reinstall the drain bolt to 34 lb*ft torque.

4th : Fill

I choose to refill using the dipstick opening because it is easier than the transmission fill port. Strange as that sounds it is true. To access the fill port you have to remove the bolts on the main relay box beside the air filter and push it to the side. Even after doing this you will need a long extension to get to the fill plug. You will also need a funnel with a 12” neck to refill via fill port.

Adding fluid to the dip stick could be a challenge itself if you don’t have the proper tools to assist you. What I did is went to Advance and purchased a small hand pump. It looks like a sports ball hand air pump, like you would use to fill a football, basketball, etc. The hand pump also has clear flex hose attached to the output opening and at the end of the flex hose is a plastic tapered fitting. The end of the fitting is small enough to fit in the dipstick opening and protrude into it about 3/8”. The fitting will not stay in the opening unless you hold it into place. You can simply ask a helper to hold it in place while you pump the fluid or as I did you can secure it into place with wire tires.

To secure it into place using wire ties:

Place the fitting in the dipstick opening while holding the pump flex tube in a vertical position. You will see some wires conveniently located to the left of your flex tube. I simply sistered the flex tube to the wires using a wire tie about 3 inches above the dipstick opening. Do not tighten down on the wire tie so it pinches the flex tube. Then I removed the air intake manifold cover by removing the 4 tabs at the corners and lifting the cover strait up. I anchored the flex tube to the front right corner hole that is used to secure the front right corner of the air intake manifold cover that is now open/available since you removed the cover. Slide the wire tie through the front right corner air intake manifold cover hole that is now available, wrap it around the flex tube, and tighten (don’t pinch the tube).

Now you have a flex tube that has the fitting end placed in the dipstick hole, wired tied 3” above the dipstick hole (sistered to wires), and wire tied to the hole for the manifold cover. This arrangement is enough to keep the fitting end in the dipstick hole while you fill the transmission up with fluid. I filled a Styrofoam cup with ATF and place the cup on the front plastic cover (The pump’s input end will not fit in the ATF’s container opening). Simply submerge the input shaft of the pump into the cup containing ATF fluid and pump the fluid using the hand pump. When you are filling do it slowly. If you pump to fast the fluid will back up and run out the dipstick opening. Pump slowly and all will be fine. Of course some fluid will spill just clean it up and have a piece of plastic under the car to protect the surface beneath the car (your driveway more than likely). After you have pumped 2.9 liters of fluid in remove pump, add dipstick, and clean spillage. ATF fluid containers are only 0.949 Liters. Check level by starting car, warm up engine, go through gears, shut car off, and check level within 90 seconds of shutting car off.

5th : Mix

Drop car after fluid level confirmed/no leaking, and go for a 10 mile drive going through all gears. Then check drain bolt again for leaking.

6th : Repeat

Repeat Steps 1-5

7th : Repeat

Repeat steps 1-5

Reinstall splash shield and air intake manifold (If needed).

Finished… Take pride in what you just did for not only did you save money, you also know it was done correctly.

Notes:

I did the 3X3 flush to get all new fluid in the system and afterwards will only do a single ATF drain/refill at every oil change interval. I am transmission paranoid because I used to have a 2nd generation TL. Now when I change the fluid at every oil change interval, I should have red fluid draining out and that makes my tranny happy.

Get the hand pump and check that the fitting will fit in the dipstick opening before you do anything.

Results:

The improvement in transmission performance for me was amazing.:woot: I used to get a shudder in 4th or 5th if the rpms got down to 1300-1600 (especially under load). What I suspect was going on: If only a single drain and refill is done, you are only changing out 40% of the fluid. Therefore, most of the debris/old fluid is still in there and it is simply diluted by changing a partial amount out. The debris increases the viscosity of the fluid so the trans operates at higher pressure than designed for over the rpm/speed range. This results at higher pressure over the designed speed/rpm range for each gear. So once in 4th or 5th , at low rpm, the pressure sensors are not telling the computer that the pressure is low enough to downshift. This is because the sensors are seeing a higher pressure than they should under this specific speed/rpm. It is not that it is a false pressure reading, it’s just the pressure is greater than it should be due to the increased viscosity of the fluid. Trans does not downshift at low rpm and this causes engine lugging (what I referred to as the shudder). I conclude all this based on my own rational, observation, and conclusions from results seen after modifications have been performed. I have no technical/formal training or experience regarding automatic transmissions. If anyone can add or rip my conclusions apart, please do. I am always wanting to increase my knowledge and welcome input from those who have greater knowledge, insight, or experience than I.

I noticed previously after the 83K ATF change, that it helped decrease the frequency of the shudder. Not long after the 83K change, the shudder reoccurred fully to the extent that it did before. After the 3X3 ATF change, the shudder has totally gone away and has not reappeared over 1,000 miles since the 3X3 was done. Now in 4th or 5th the tranny downshifts as it is supposed too. Previously, it would not downshift at low rpm (4th or 5th) and shudder. So I have concluded that now the viscosity, with all new fluid, is as it is supposed to be and therefore the pressure is lower at low rpm and the trans knows to downshift.

Gabe15. I posted this with you in mind! Do the 3X3 and hopefully your shudder will go away too. Afterwards, change your ATF frequently. I will keep you posted on how I am doing. Right now I am loving having my automatic back!

I did the 3X3 trans flush before I will do a trans preventative maintenance service. This is because I want to be able to ascertain the effects of the 3x3 and the trans service independently. Service will include changing the 3 PS’s, checking resistance/operation/cleaning on clutch solenoids (A, B, and C), checking resistance/operation/cleaning of shift solenoids (1 ,2, 3, and 4), and changing the 5 pipe filters that feed/protect the clutch solenoids. Needed parts arrive today so I will be doing this during Thanksgiving week. This trans service is beyond what most people want to tackle. However, if some would like and advise, I will consider a thread in regards to this service too.

Cost

I have read threads where Acura dealership will do a single ATF change for $90.00/ drain and refill so a 3X3 would cost you $270.00 and done only by request. I have also seen where people will do a 4X4 (drain/refill 4 times). Honda dealership said they would do a 3x3 for $175. I did it for the costs of 9 bottles of Honda ATF-Z1 ($50.00) and 2-3 hours of my time.

Disclaimer and Final Notes:

I am a “Jack of All Trades” but “Master of None” and an engineer with 20 years experience with machinery of all kinds…However, do at your own risk, I take no responsibility for property damage or ones safety.

I would not recommend or offer information to anyone concerning anything I would not do myself. Obviously, I did this myself and I love my car too much to put her at risk. I am confident in saying that this is within anyone’s capability if you have the tools, willingness, and time. Albeit if I were a wealthy person, I would have paid someone, that I trusted, to do this for me. Unfortunately, doing my own service is a “Necessary Evil”.

For all those tempted to respond back saying, ”This thread is worthless without pictures” I say if you need pictures, then you don’t need to be doing this procedure.:tomato:

It is noted that if your ATF fluid has never been changed and your vehicle has over 90,000 miles that a pressure flush (particularly) or 3X3 could lead to trans failure. Some shops will refuse to do a trans flush if the fluid’s never been changed and the car has greater than 90K. Pressure flushing should never be done. Reasoning is that if the debris is keeping everything tight then keeping it in there might be best. ATF has lots of detergent in it which works on debris and pressure flushing physically loosens debris. I am really not knowledgeable about the intricacies of this particular aspect and can’t give greater detail without researching.

Recycle your fluids! Do not dump on ground somewhere. If someone sees you doing this they should contact the authorities. This is a VERY bad thing to do! :annoyed: You can contaminate millions of gallons of groundwater! It’s not hard to place used fluid in a 5 gallon bucket and take it to your local recycling center. Most of them accept oil and probably the local parts stores do it as a service too.

Stay tuned for more technical threads to come (Propeller Shaft Whine).

Happy Driving,

StevesRL ]]> Second Generation RL stevesrl http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753017 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752998&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:33:32 GMT Is there a light that illuminates the change tray that is in front of the gear shift? (the one that says "this is not an ashtray"). I can't remember or find any info on it within any of the service manuals. If there is, anyone know how to replace the bulb? I can see a little plastic piece in the back of the tray that could be used to display light.....

Thanks to everyone in advance for the help these past few weeks! ]]> Second Generation RL CowboyRL http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752998 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752924&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:44:02 GMT Has anyone had their transmission fluids changed at the dealer? I couldnt tell from my dealer's printout if it was a flush, or if they just drain and refill the fluids. I have read many horror stories of the transmission flush..... ]]> Second Generation RL CowboyRL http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752924 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752915&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:36:54 GMT Okay so I'm going to replace my front rotors and front and rear pads on the 06 that I just bought that replaced my 05 that was totaled. I had the body shop switch over my new rear rotors that the insurance company put on my 05 to my 06 before they took it to auction. I'm going to get
Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads from Tire Rack for the front and back. I'm trying to decide between http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...Q5fAccessories
or get the StopTech slotted from Josh for $227. I'm not looking for a new amazing brake feel I was just trying to save the $75 and get the EBay ones. I know that since they are drilled and slotted they can warp more easily but are they junk? I would be happy as long as they last as long as OEM and have the same or better performance. ]]> Second Generation RL wcoy http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752915 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752861&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:49:32 GMT Ok guys, I was letting my GF use my car since I was out on a buisness trip. Yesterday she calls me and the first thing she says is "dont be mad" lol.... Well long story short she gave one of my 2 month old a-spec wheels a nice 4" curb rash. So she is gonna get it fixed, I just want to know if anyone has had good luck with any wheel repair shops in the southern CA area. I just want the paint match to be good and dont want her to spend ~$400 for a new wheel. :wish: ]]> Second Generation RL Dopes6070 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752861 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752821&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:13:17 GMT After I put down my pitchfork and torch....I too would drive out and pick up a new Acura designer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCoACJ7320 After I put down my pitchfork and torch....I too would drive out and pick up a new Acura designer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCoACJ7320 ]]> Second Generation RL TampaRL http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752821 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752805&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:39:37 GMT Some of you may remember a few weeks ago I started a thread looking for an opinion on what to replace my RL with. After considering buying, leasing, new used. And every possible option except the new buick. I'm not 65, 55, or 45, or even 35 so I can't drive a buick.

My ideal car (not dream car) would be a Infiniti M45x but I need a lower payment not a higher one.

So the top two choices are:
09 Infiniti G37x Loaded
10 Nissan Maxima SV Loaded - Premium OR Sport package (I can't decide).

So fellow Acura brothers and sisters HELP me decide. Which car does someone who's been in an acura for over 6 years pick?

The Maxima is $96 cheaper per month including ins gas etc.
The Maxima is has a bigger backseat for my 5 year old.
The Maxima will be the same speed and handle worse than my RL.
The Maxima is similar in size to my RL.
The Maxima has a so so interior.

The G37 has AWD.
The G37 will be faster and handle better than my RL.
The G37 is an Infiniti so the dealer service will cost more should be nicer.
The G37 is a lot smaller than my RL.
The G37 has a decent interior.

Given the economy and the fact I work for a mortgage company I'm thinking save $96 per month. I just which the maxima had AWD then I don't think I'd be thinking so hard.

Help... ]]> Second Generation RL briny319 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752805 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752794&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:32:19 GMT someone helllllpppppp smashed my baby need many parts to put her back together:ugh::ugh: someone helllllpppppp
smashed my baby need many
parts to put her back together:ugh::ugh: ]]> First Generation RL twizzle 97rl http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752794 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752754&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:52:40 GMT can anyone tell me where to find the vss wire on 2000 rl and what color is the wire and where it is located? thank you can anyone tell me where to find the vss wire on 2000 rl and what color is the wire and where it is located? thank you ]]> viper312 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752754 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752744&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:10:05 GMT Sorry I don't take the best pictures but I really love what the spoiler has done for the car. You have to see it in person, as you do with the paint to appreciate it. Tampa I highly recommend you pull the trigger. Did it myself without the screws and everything went well. Added some super heavy duty outdoor double sided tape like Bob did a few years back and if it worked for him in Cleveland it will work for me.




]]> Second Generation RL wcoy http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752744 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752731&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:34:18 GMT I have an 04 with RonJon 19" Inspyre wheels. My clutch is going out and I have found a 2005 RL that I'm falling for. Anyone know if the RonJon wheels I had on my TL will fit the RL? Yes, I could ask Rondy over at RonJon, but just figured I might get some additional interesting feedback about my possibly buying the RL if I asked here.

Thanks! ]]> Second Generation RL zookie http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752731 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752696&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:38:44 GMT How long does it take you to get Real Time traffic colored lines? I leave my work and in 3 minutes I am on the freeway, and the lines are not updated until the 4th minute. Is this standard for everyone? I am in sf bay area. I hate it cuz if there is a traffic jam I get stuck, since I have 2 options... How long does it take you to get Real Time traffic colored lines? I leave my work and in 3 minutes I am on the freeway, and the lines are not updated until the 4th minute. Is this standard for everyone? I am in sf bay area. I hate it cuz if there is a traffic jam I get stuck, since I have 2 options for my route...07 RL ]]> gcook http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752696 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752694&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:35:54 GMT Do you have to update the nav to get the correct DST dates ?? I thought the dealer could give you a bios update or some other computer update, but apparently not? Mine changed 2 weeks early. I read some other posts but no clear understanding if there is a fix?? Do you have to update the nav to get the correct DST dates ?? I thought the dealer could give you a bios update or some other computer update, but apparently not? Mine changed 2 weeks early. I read some other posts but no clear understanding if there is a fix?? ]]> gcook http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752694 http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752656&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:32:34 GMT My bluetooth stopped working in my 05 RL. Took it to the dealer and they say the module is out and will cost $1,300 plus labor for new module. Is it the HFL module I need to buy? Saw one for $150 on e-bay. Where is it located on vehicle? My bluetooth stopped working in my 05 RL. Took it to the dealer and they say the module is out and will cost $1,300 plus labor for new module. Is it the HFL module I need to buy? Saw one for $150 on e-bay. Where is it located on vehicle? ]]> cwharper http://rl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752656